The West Coast Trail

Backpacking The West Coast Trail

The West Coast Trail (WCT) is one of the most spectacular hikes in Canada. This world famous hiking trail is a stunning 5-7 day backpacking trip along the west coast of Vancouver Island. The trail is 75km in length and travels through the Pacific Rim National Park. 

There’s no better way to explore Pacific Rim National Park than hiking the WCT. If you are looking for a trail with a variety of wildlife, pristine beaches and fantastic scenery, then this is the perfect trail for you. 

This guide aims to cover everything you need to know to plan your trip to the WCT. If you are on the hunt for the best campgrounds, need help with an itinerary, or are wondering what’s the best time to go, I have it all covered here, along with much more. 

I did film my time on the West Coast Trail, so if you want to see what it’s like on the trail then check out my video below. 

How To Get There

The West Coast Trail is very remote. If you are flying in from overseas or elsewhere in Canada, you will most likely fly into Vancouver. From Vancouver you need to either hire a car or take public transport to Vancouver Island. Depending which trailhead you start at, you will want to take the ferry from Vancouver to either Victoria or Nanaimo. 

Personally, regardless of where you start, I’d catch the ferry to Victoria. The reason for this, is that I think it’s better to leave your car at Gordon River and use the shuttle service to get to & from Pachena Bay. I’ll explain more about the reasons behind this later on. 

Once you arrive in Victoria, this will be your base to then head out to complete the WCT. From Victoria it’s a two hour drive to Gordon River, which is the southern most trail head. 

If you don’t have a car, you can use public transport to get from Vancouver to Victoria. Then you can use the West Coast Trail bus to take you from Victoria to either trailhead.

West Coast Trail
Stunning Beach on the West Coast Trail
WCT
West Coast Trail

Where to Start?

You have three entry points to the West Coast Trail.

  • Pachena Bay
  • Nitinaht
  • Gordon River

Which one you decide to start at will most likely depend on what permits are available. But I’ll cover the pro’s & cons of starting at each. 

Pachena Bay

This is my preferred start point. There are lots of benefits to starting here, both physically and logistically.

Lets start with the logistics – The WCT is a through hike, so you need to find a way to get back to your car at either the start or end of your hike.

You can drive to either trailhead. However; Pachena Bay is hours away from the nearest big town. Not only is it far away from a large town, there’s also no paved roads to get here. It’s a couple of hours on unpaved logging roads, which certainly isn’t pleasant unless you have a good 4×4. If you plan to shuttle cars, you are going to have to take two vehicle’s down this road at the start and end of your hike. 

Personally I’d rather not do that. I’d prefer to let the logging roads damage a commercial vehicle instead of my own & only do the trip once. So that brings me onto the shuttle bus. 

The West Coast Trail bus starts in Victoria each morning. Stopping at Gordon River and then onto Pachena Bay. Ideally you want to have your car available when you finish the hike. So parking at Port Renfrew, then getting the bus to Pachena Bay in the morning, is a great option and works great for timing. 

Then there’s the physical benefits of Pachena Bay. You arrive at Pachena Bay by bus at around lunchtime, then you have a relatively easy hike to the first campground. This makes for a really nice first day on trail especially as your backpack will be at it’s heaviest. 

There is paid parking at Port Renfrew which is managed by the campground. This is generally more secure than parking at Pachena Bay, which is just another reason to use the shuttle bus. Once you finish the trail you can also use the paid showers at the campground and only have a short drive back to Victoria. 

Cons of starting at Pachena Bay? – I honestly can’t think of any!

Pachena Bay
Pachena Bay

Nitinaht

This is the least popular start point and one most people try to avoid using. There’s only two reasons to use this trailhead. Either you don’t have the time or fitness to hike the full trail, or you couldn’t get a permit to start at the main trailheads. 

So what’s the benefits of using this start point? 

If you don’t want to hike the entire trail, this is a great option for doing a smaller itinerary, as you start half way along the trail. As this is a less popular option, there are quite often permits available to start the trail here. That is a huge reason most people start here, permits sell out quick on the WCT, and this trailhead might allow you to hike on the days you have available.

What’s the cons of starting here?

The main one is the cost. You have to take an extra ferry to get to the trail from here which isn’t included in the price of the permit. Then there’s the fact you are in the middle of the trail. This could be a benefit or con depending how you look at it. If you are super fit you might decide to hike all the way up to Pachena bay, then turn around and do the trail in reverse. But most people head up to Tsusiat Falls, then turn around to head to Gordon River. This means you miss the northern most part of the trail. 

Nitinaht Narrows
Nitinaht Narrows

Gordon River

This is a very popular start point and has lots of pro’s and cons. 

One of the benefits of starting here is having the ability to get an early start. It’s a relatively short drive to the trail head and you can get your permit as soon as the trail office opens. You also get what is considered the most challenging part of the trail over with on the first day, but I’ll come back to that in a minute. The other benefit of starting here is that when you exit the trail at Pachena Bay, it’s possible to make it out in time to catch the bus back to your car. 

So what are the cons? 

The biggest con is getting the hardest part of the trail on the first day. I personally wouldn’t class the trail here as particularly difficult. What makes it difficult for people is doing it with an overweight backpack. If you do this on the last day, you will find it much easier through this section of trail, especially if you have hiked the Juan De Fuca Trail before. 

Completing the costal route around Owen Pt will also be a challenge with a heavy backpack. You also may not be able to time this with the tide times if you’re hoping to do it on your first day. Parks Canada only recommend hiking to Thrasher Cove on your first day from Gordon River. This isn’t the best campground and doesn’t feel very remote, but you may not have a choice but to stay here if you start at Gordon River. 

Owen Point
Owen Point

Permits & Cost

If you are planning to hike the West Coast Trail then you need to purchase a permit from Parks Canada. Reservations generally open in January for the summer season. This is a very popular trail with a very limited number of permits. You need to make sure you book as soon as possible to get the permit for the date you want. To make a reservation visit the Parks Canada reservation system.  

The West Coast Trail is expensive. This is mainly due to the amount of work required by Parks Canada and the Native communities to maintain the trail. The reservation from Parks Canada covers the cost of the campgrounds and the ferry crossings. 

Reservation Cost as of 2022: $210

National Park Pass: $53 for single person/ $105 for Family Pass -These prices are just for Pacific Rim National Park. If you plan to visit other national parks in Canada, you will be better off buying an annual discovery pass. 

That means for a single person, it will cost almost $300 to get the permits to hike the trail. That doesn’t include the cost of the shuttle bus, or the added ferry cost if you start at Nitinaht. 

That may not seem too expensive when you consider you get to spend a week on the magnificent West Coast Trail. But most other trails in BC, such as the North Coast Trail, only cost $70 for the week. So by comparison, the WCT is significantly more expensive. 

Is it worth the cost? Absolutely! This is a trip you will remember for a lifetime. So although it’s more expensive than other trails in the area, it’s a small price to pay for such a memorable experience. 

Boardwalks
Well Maintained Boardwalks

Campgrounds

Michigan Creek Camp (KM12) – This is the first/last campground on the WCT. It is a nice little campground on the beach, but there isn’t much space to avoid the high tide. Considering Darling river is only a 2km walk up the beach, I would choose to stay there instead. 

Darling River Camp (KM14) – This is a great little campground that is the perfect place to spend your first or last night. There is a nice sandy beach & plenty of fire wood. The only negative to this campground is that there isn’t much space above the high tide mark. It’s also a popular area for black bears. I actually had one in camp when I woke up in the morning!

Orange Juice Creek Camp (KM15) – This is more of a wilderness campground. It doesn’t have a outhouse or food locker. Considering bears do roam in this area, you will have to hang a food bag which isn’t ideal. This is a great campground if you want to avoid the crowds & don’t mind the lack of facilities. 

Tsocowis Creek Camp (KM17) – This is a nice quite campground but isn’t used much. The location on trail and distance between campgrounds means this one generally doesn’t fit into most peoples itineraries. There is a nice beach here, but unless you are on a slow itinerary & have a nice summers day, it’s unlikely you will want to camp here. 

Klanawa River Camp (KM23) – If you are looking to avoid the crowds then this is a nice quite campground. But considering Tsusiat Falls is just around the corner, I would choose to stay there instead. You have 16km between Tsusiat Falls & Cribbs Creek, so you don’t want to add an extra 2km by not staying at the closest campground.   

Tsusiat Falls Camp (KM25) – This is one of the nicest campgrounds on the WCT. It gets very busy here, but if you are willing to walk a little there’s plenty of great tent spots with some fantastic views. 

Cribs Creek Camp (KM41.5) – Another popular campground mainly due to it’s location on trail. There is a huge sandy beach here with options to camp on both sides of the creek. I actually really liked this campground but it does get busy. 

Carmanah Creek Camp (KM46) – This is a beautiful campground that is missed by most. Due to the long day between Tsusiat Falls & Cribs Creek, very few people keep going to this campground. If you can fit this into your itinerary, it’s a great camp spot. 

Bonilla Point Camp (KM48) – Another fantastic campground that is normally very quite. It can be tricky to fit this one into your itinerary, but if you can it’s well worth it. This is one of the nicest campgrounds on the trail.  

Walbran Creek Camp (KM53) – This is a busy spot with most hikers camping here. It’s location makes it the perfect place for a 6 or 7 day itinerary. You need to cross the creek to get to the campground, but there’s some really nice beach spots for a tent & also some forested spots too.  

Cullite Creek Camp (KM58) – A very small campground that could get crowded on a busy day. There’s only a few good spots here so you will want to arrive early to get a good one. This isn’t a very popular campground, but since it’s so small you only need a few groups here for it to feel busy.  

Camper Bay Camp (KM 62) – A great campground near the end of the trail. This is a very busy campground but there’s a good amount of space and it’s a beautiful location. It’s well worth an early start to hike out to Gordon River on your last day from here. 

Thrasher Cove Camp (KM71) – The first/ last campground on trail. There are some nice views from the beach here, but it doesn’t feel very isolated considering you can see the lights from Port Renfrew from the beach. There also isn’t many great place to pitch a tent. 

Cribs Creek
Sunset at Cribs Creek

Best Time To Go

The trail is open from May to September. Most people like to go during July or Aug, expecting it to be warm and sunny during the summer. Unfortunately, this is the west coast. Although summer does generally have the best weather, it doesn’t mean you wont encounter any downpours on your trip. 

I actually prefer to visit just outside of the peak season, in June or Sept. The cooler temps are good for hiking, so you won’t be getting too hot and sweaty. It’s also much easier to get permits as it’s outside the peak season. You could be taking a gamble with the weather, but considering it rains here year round, the odds for good weather aren’t much better in the summer. 

Hiking in May is also a good option, depending where you are visiting from. If you live in the mountains where the hiking season is very short, this is a great early season objective that will leave you free in the summer months to be hiking in the mountains.  You can expect the trail to be very wet in May, but there are enough boardwalks for you to avoid most of the mud. 

Itinerary

Most people complete the West Coast trail in a typical 6 or 7 day itinerary. If you are a fast hiker it can certainly be done in fewer days, but it’s worth taking your time and enjoying the experience. 

Below are three suggested itineraries. Two start from Pachena Bay, which can be done in either direction, the final one starts at Nitinaht Narrows. 

Typical 7 Day Itinerary: – Ideal for less experienced hikers & those with plenty of time

Day 1: Pachena Bay – Darling River (14km)

Day 2: Darling River – Tsusiat Falls (10km)

Day 3: Tsusiat Falls – Cribbs Creek (16.5km)  

Day 4: Cribbs Creek – Walbran Creek (11.5km)

Day 5: Walbran Creek – Camper Bay (9km)

Day 6: Camper Bay – Thrasher Cove (9km) – I would recommend the coastal route for experienced hikers & the inland route for anyone who isn’t comfortable climbing over large boulders. 

Day 7: Thrasher Cove – Gordon River (6km)

Suggested 6 Day Itinerary: – This is the route I would recommend for more experienced hikers & is very similar to the route I took. 

Day 1: Pachena Bay – Darling River (14km)

Day 2: Darling River – Tsusiat Falls (11km)

Day 3: Tsusiat Falls – Cribs Creek (16.5km)

Day 4: Cribs Creek – Bonilla Point (6.5km) – A short day but avoids staying at the much busier Walbran Campground

Day 5: Bonilla Point – Camper Bay (14km)

Day 6: Camper Bay – Gordon River (13-14km) – If possible take the coastal route, but remember you need to be out before the last ferry departs. You will need an early start.

5 Day Itinerary Starting at Nitinaht Narrows:- This itinerary is designed for those starting at Nitinaht Narrows. You still see most of the highlights, but complete the trail in 5 days.  

Day 1: Nitinaht Narrows – Tsusiat Falls (7.5km)

Day 2: Tsusiat Falls – Cribs Creek (16.5km)

Day 3: Cribs Creek – Walbran Creek (11.5km)

Day 4: Walbran Creek – Camper Bay (9km)

Day 5: Camper Bay – Gordon River (13-14km)

On the map below you can view the 7 day itinerary with a daily breakdown. You can find more details on each specific day on trail by reading my guidebook on FATMAP. 

Top Tips

The West Coast Trail is a remote backpacking trip. If you are thinking about completing this trail you should be comfortable hiking for 6-8 hours a day with a heavy backpack. 

Here are some top tips to help you have an enjoyable time on trail!

  1. Don’t overpack! The lighter your backpack the easier the trail is. You only need 1 set of hiking clothes & 1 set of camp clothes.
  2. Bring lots of food! You will burn lots of Calories on the trail & quite often you will eat more than you expect. On a long trail like this, I normally carry an extra days worth of food in case you stay on trail longer than expected.
  3. Use a quick & accessible water filter. If you are hiking with just 1 or 2 people, you are much better off using a small compact filter like a Sawyer Squeeze or Katadyn Befree. This allows you to carry less water & refill on the go quicker. Water is heavy, you don’t want to be carrying more than 1L at a time. 
  4. Bring a tarp! This is a very wet climate & the odds of you having no rain on trail for an entire week are slim, even in summer. A lightweight tarp like the RAB Siltarp, are perfect for when you are sat around camp in the rain. 
  5. Consider bringing microspikes. I always get funny looks when I suggest this, but once you get on trail you will see why it’s a good idea! There are lots of boardwalks on the WCT. In wet conditions they are extremely slippery, which is where having spikes would be useful.  

What to Bring?

Packing for a week long backpacking trip can be a challenge. Especially if you haven’t done any long backpacking trips before. I’m not going to do a comprehensive packing list, but I will list some of the essentials and the things I normally carry in my backpack.

I’ve done lots of backpacking with the items on this list. If you have things that are not on here, consider if they are really essential, you want to pack as light as possible.

Clothing:

  • Hiking Pants/ Trousers x1
  • Camp Pants/ Trousers x1
  • Camp T-Shirt & a Hiking T-shirt
  • Lightweight hoodie/ Fleece
  • Down Jacket
  • Waterproof shell
  • Socks/ Underwear 
  • Beanie & lightweight gloves
  • Waterproof Pants
  • Gaiters

Camp Essentials:

  • Tent
  • Sleeping Bag
  • Sleep Pad
  • Inflatable Pillow
  • Tarp

Cooking/ Hygiene:

  • Stove
  • Small Pot
  • Spork
  • Water Filter
  • Toilet Paper
  • Hand Sanitizer/ Soap

Extras:

  • Camera
  • Inreach
  • Power Bank
  • Trekking Poles
  • First Aid Kit
  • Bear Spray
Tsusiat Falls
Tsusiat Falls

Have a Question?

If you have any questions about anything I’ve covered here or suggestions for things to add… then get in touch and I’ll try my best to answer them.